Thinking About Hair Extensions? Let Me Tell You What Actually Happens

I do a lot of hair extensions. Like, a lot. And almost every single person who comes in to talk about them is nervous.

They sit down, they show me photos of the hair they want, and then they lean in and quietly ask, "Is it going to look fake?" or "Is it going to ruin my hair?" or "How much is this actually going to cost?"

All valid questions. Hair extensions are a big commitment, and there's a ton of bad information out there. So let me just walk you through what actually happens, what it costs, and what you need to know before you do it.

I'm Danielle, I work at Rock Paper Scissors in Chino, and I specialize in extensions and color. I've probably done hundreds of extension installations at this point. Here's what I wish everyone knew before they booked their first appointment.

The Consultation Is Where We Figure Out If This Is Even a Good Idea

Before we do anything, we need to sit down and talk. And I mean really talk, not just "yeah, I want long hair."

I need to see your hair. I need to know how thick it is, how healthy it is, if you've had damage from previous color or heat styling. Because here's the thing: if your hair is too damaged or too thin, extensions might not work. Or they might work, but they'll look obvious or put too much strain on your natural hair.

I've had to tell people no before. There was a woman who came in maybe six months ago, her hair had been bleached so much it was basically breaking off. She wanted a full head of long extensions. I told her we needed to focus on getting her hair healthy first, and then we could talk about extensions in a few months. She was disappointed, but I'm not going to take someone's money and give them a result that's going to damage their hair further or look bad.

We also talk about lifestyle. If you swim every day, certain extension methods aren't going to work well for you. If you work out constantly and wear your hair in a tight bun, we need to factor that in. If you have zero time in the morning to style your hair, we need to manage expectations about maintenance.

And we talk about what you actually want. "Long hair" isn't specific enough. Do you want mermaid length down to your waist? Do you just want your hair to hit your collarbone instead of your shoulders? Do you want thickness more than length?

I had a client, Monica, who came in with photos of this super long, thick hair. But when we talked about her actual routine, she told me she barely has time to brush her hair in the morning and she washes it every other day and lets it air dry. I told her that the hair in the photos would require way more maintenance than that, and we came up with a different plan. We did a partial extension application for volume and a moderate length increase. She was way happier with that than she would have been trying to maintain hair she didn't have time for.

What It Actually Costs (Because Nobody Wants to Talk About This)

Extensions are expensive. I'm just going to say it up front so nobody is surprised.

The hair itself costs anywhere from $400 to over $1,000 depending on the brand, length, and how much hair you need. That's just the hair. You're also paying for the application, which is usually $200 to $400 depending on how long it takes and what method we're using.

So your initial cost is typically $600 to $1,400, sometimes more.

Then every 6 to 8 weeks, you need to come back for a move up appointment. This is when we remove the extensions, move them higher up on your head as your natural hair grows, and reinstall them. Move ups usually cost $150 to $300.

The good news is you can reuse the hair for multiple applications if you take care of it. So you're not buying new hair every time, just paying for the move up service.

But yeah, it adds up. If money is tight, extensions might not be the best choice right now. I always tell people to be realistic about whether they can afford the ongoing maintenance, not just the initial install.

Application Day Takes Forever (And That's Normal)

When you come in to get your extensions installed, plan to be here for a while. Depending on the method and how much hair we're adding, it can take 2 to 5 hours.

Come with clean, dry hair and no products in it. We need a clean base to work with.

Bring something to do. A book, your phone, headphones, whatever. Some people bring their laptop and work. Some people just zone out and relax. We have a Starbucks down the street if you need coffee first.

The actual application is pretty tedious. We're working in small sections, placing each piece of hair precisely. If we're doing tape ins, we're sandwiching tiny sections of your natural hair between two tape wefts. If we're doing beaded wefts, we're sewing the hair onto small beads attached to your natural hair.

It's not painful, but it takes a long time because we're being really careful about placement and making sure everything is secure and hidden.

I had someone book an extension appointment last month and mention in passing that she had to pick her kids up from school in three hours. I told her we needed to reschedule because there was no way I could finish in three hours. She seemed annoyed, but I'd rather reschedule than rush through it and do a bad job.

The First Few Days Are Weird

Your head is going to feel heavy and strange for the first few days. Some people say it feels tight or uncomfortable, especially when they're trying to sleep.

This is normal. Your scalp is adjusting to the extra weight. It usually goes away within a week.

You can't wash your hair for 48 hours after the install. This gives the bonds or tape time to fully set. You also need to avoid heavy sweating, so skip the gym for a couple days.

When you do wash your hair, you have to be more careful than you're used to. You can't just pile your hair on top of your head and scrub. You need to wash in sections, being gentle around the bonds or tape. We'll show you how to do this before you leave.

You also need to brush your hair differently. You have to use a special extension brush and start from the bottom, working your way up slowly so you don't pull on the bonds.

It's an adjustment. Some people adapt immediately and love it. Some people have a "what did I just do" moment for the first week. That's normal too.

Color Matching Is Harder Than You Think

Most people don't have one solid hair color. You have different tones throughout. Maybe lighter pieces around your face, darker underneath, some natural highlights.

If we just match your extensions to your overall color, they're going to look flat and obvious. We usually blend 2 or 3 different shades to create dimension that matches your natural hair.

My coworkers Angelina and Stephanie are both really good at this. Sometimes I'll have them look at a color match with me because four eyes are better than two.

I had a client whose natural hair looked like a solid medium brown, but when you really looked at it, she had golden tones around her face and some darker, ashier pieces underneath. We used three different shades of extensions to recreate that. When it was done, you genuinely could not tell where her natural hair ended and the extensions started.

That's the goal. If people can tell you have extensions, either the color matching was off or the placement was wrong.

When Extensions Don't Work Out

Sometimes extensions just aren't the right fit, and that becomes clear pretty quickly.

If your natural hair is too fine or thin, the extensions can put too much tension on it and cause breakage. If your hair is too short, there's not enough length to hide the bonds or tape properly.

If you're not willing to do the maintenance, they're going to look bad fast. You have to brush them daily. You have to use the right products. You have to come in for move ups every 6 to 8 weeks. If you skip these things, your extensions will get matted, tangled, and obvious.

I had a client get extensions and then not come back for her move up for almost four months. When she finally came in, her natural hair had grown so much that the extensions had slid way down and you could see all the tape. They were matted at the roots. It was a mess. I had to remove them, detangle everything, and then we reinstalled new hair. It took forever and cost her more money than if she'd just come in for regular move ups.

Extensions only work if you're willing to take care of them.

Should You Get Extensions?

If you've been thinking about it for a while, if you have a specific goal (like growing out a bad haircut or adding volume to thin hair), if you're willing to commit to the maintenance and the cost, then yes, extensions can be great.

If you're just bored and want to try something new but you're not sure, maybe start with clip in extensions first. You can take those out whenever you want and they're way cheaper. See if you like having longer or thicker hair before you commit to a permanent install.

If your hair is damaged or you're not ready for the maintenance commitment, hold off. Get your hair healthy first. Save up so you can afford not just the install but the ongoing move ups.

We do free consultations. Come in, let me look at your hair, we'll talk about what you want and whether extensions make sense for you right now. No pressure, just information.

We're at Rock Paper Scissors, 5222 D St. in Chino. Downtown in the brick building. Call (909) 707-9553 or book a consultation online.

Let's figure out if extensions are the right move for your hair.

Danielle