Balayage vs. Highlights: Which One Is Actually Right for You?

One of the most common questions I hear when a new client sits in my chair is, "So, what is balayage, really? Is it different from highlights?"

Just last week, my client Amanda came in with a photo from Instagram. She said, "I want this, but I don't even know what to call it. Is this balayage? Are those highlights? I feel so lost."

It's such a great question because honestly, the beauty world has thrown these terms around so much they've gotten confusing. You see pictures online of gorgeous hair and you want that! But you're not sure what to ask for or how to even explain it.

Let me clear it all up. As one of the lead stylists here at Rock Paper Scissors Hair Studio, I've spent years perfecting these techniques right here in Chino. My goal is to help you understand the difference so you can walk in for your consultation feeling confident about what you want.

Think of this as our little chat before you even come into the salon.

The Real Difference: It's All in the Application

The biggest thing to know is that balayage isn't a look, it's a technique. The word itself is French and means "to sweep" or "to paint," which is exactly what we do. We hand-paint the lightener directly onto your hair, creating soft, natural-looking ribbons of color.

Traditional highlights, on the other hand, are a more structured process. We use foils to separate sections of hair and apply the lightener from the root to the tip. This creates a more uniform and defined pattern of lightness.

Here's the simple breakdown:

Balayage is freehand painting for a blended, sun-kissed, lived-in look. The grow-out is super soft because there are no harsh lines.

Traditional highlights use foils for a more defined, uniform lift from the root down. This gives you a brighter, more classic highlighted look.

Foilyage is like the perfect hybrid. We use the balayage painting technique but wrap the sections in foil. This gives us the blended look of balayage with the powerful lift you get from foils. It's perfect for clients with darker hair who want a big transformation.

I learned about foilyage the hard way, actually. Years ago, I had a client named Maria who had really dark brown hair. She wanted a soft, blonde balayage. I did traditional balayage, painting it on freehand. But her hair was so dark that it barely lifted. She left disappointed, and I felt terrible.

That's when I learned that sometimes you need the power of foil to get enough lift on darker hair. Now when I have clients with dark hair wanting to go significantly lighter, I use foilyage. It gives them the soft, blended look they want with the actual lightness they're dreaming of.

Meet Your Highlighting Specialists

Choosing the right technique is only half the battle. The other half is the artist. Here in our historic downtown Chino salon, we have a team of true color specialists.

When it comes to hand-painted techniques, you'll be in amazing hands with Mikayla and Jillian. Jillian is a master of creating those delicate, dreamy babylights and soft, blended balayage that looks like you spent a month at the beach.

I watched Jillian work on a client named Sarah last month. Sarah has naturally dark blonde hair and wanted just a subtle brightening. Jillian painted the finest, most delicate pieces throughout her hair. When we finished, Sarah stared at herself in the mirror for a long time. Then she said, "I can't even tell where you put the color. It just looks like my hair, but better. This is exactly what I wanted."

That's Jillian's gift. Subtle, natural, beautiful.

If you're after a bolder look, maybe some block coloring or vivids mixed in with your balayage, Mikayla's creativity is simply unmatched. She did a balayage with bright copper pieces on a client named Jennifer a few weeks ago. It was bold and artistic and completely unique. Jennifer posted it everywhere and brought three of her friends in the next week.

They both have an incredible eye for placement and creating color that truly fits your personality.

What to Expect at Your Appointment

So you've decided to take the plunge. What does the actual appointment look like?

First, a thorough consultation is key. We'll talk about your hair history, your lifestyle, and your goals. This is where you show us all your inspiration photos! This chat helps us decide if balayage, foilyage, or traditional highlights are the best fit.

The coloring process itself typically takes between 2 to 4 hours. This can change depending on how much hair you have and how light you want to go. We'll paint, process, rinse, tone, and finish with a beautiful blowout.

It's an investment of time, but the results are so worth it.

Amanda, the client I mentioned at the beginning, ended up getting foilyage. She has dark brown hair and wanted to go much lighter. The appointment took about three and a half hours. When I showed her the final result, she got tears in her eyes. She said, "This is exactly what the picture was. I didn't think my hair could look like this."

That's why we do what we do.

Let's Talk Money: The Investment in Great Color

Okay, let's talk about cost. In Southern California, the price for custom color can vary quite a bit. You're not just paying for the product. You're paying for your stylist's time, education, and artistic skill.

Traditional highlights generally run anywhere from $100 to $200. Balayage or foilyage, these custom, hand-painted services, usually range from $250 to $400, and sometimes more for major transformations.

The final price depends on a few things: your hair's length and thickness, its starting color, and the final look you want to achieve. We're always upfront about pricing during our consultations so there are no surprises.

I had a client named Lisa who was shocked when I quoted her for balayage. She said, "I can get highlights down the street for $100. Why is this so much more?"

I explained that balayage takes significantly more time and skill. We're hand-painting every single piece to create a custom look just for her. It's not a one-size-fits-all process. She decided to go for it, and when she came back three months later for a touch-up, she said, "I get it now. This has saved me so much time and money compared to my old highlights. I used to go every six weeks. Now I can go every three or four months."

That's when the value really shows itself.

The Low-Maintenance Advantage

While the initial cost of balayage can be higher than traditional highlights, it often saves you money in the long run. Because the color is blended so seamlessly away from the root, you don't get that harsh grow-out line.

This means you can go much longer between appointments. Most of our balayage clients come in every 3 to 4 months for a touch-up, and some go as long as 6 months! Traditional highlights often require a touch-up every 6 to 8 weeks.

Fewer appointments per year really add up.

My client Rebecca has been getting balayage for two years now. She came in last month and said, "I used to spend over $1,200 a year on highlights. Now I spend about $600 on balayage. And my hair is healthier because I'm not bleaching it every six weeks."

She's not wrong. The math really does work out.

Protecting Your Color in the SoCal Sun

Living here in the Inland Empire means we get a lot of beautiful, sunny days. While we love it, the sun can be tough on hair color, causing it to fade or turn brassy.

We always tell our clients to think of haircare like skincare. You'd never spend a day outside without sunscreen, right? Your hair needs that same protection.

Using a UV protectant spray is a must, especially if you have fresh color. It's also why we recommend products like Amika's The Kure Bond Repair Shampoo to keep your hair strong and healthy between visits. A healthy canvas always holds color better.

My client Rachel learned this the hard way. She got beautiful blonde balayage and then spent a week at the beach with no hair protection. When she came back, her color had turned brassy and dull. She was so upset.

We were able to tone it and fix it, but I made sure she left with a UV spray and strict instructions to use it. Now she keeps one in her beach bag permanently.

Finding the Right Placement for Your Face Shape

One of my favorite parts of coloring hair is using placement to highlight a client's best features. The right placement can completely enhance your face shape.

For round or square faces, we often place brighter pieces around the jawline and temples to add length and dimension.

For heart-shaped faces, softer pieces around the face with more lightness toward the ends can balance your features beautifully.

For oval faces, you can pull off almost anything! We can play with bold face-framing pieces or a subtle, all-over glow.

This is where a stylist's eye really comes into play. It's something we discuss in depth during your consultation to create a look that's 100% you. It's the kind of personal touch you won't find at a big chain salon.

I had a client named Michelle with a square face shape who kept asking for all-over highlights. Every time she left, she felt like something was off but couldn't figure out what. When she finally came to us, I explained that the even placement was actually making her face look wider.

I concentrated brighter pieces around her face and kept the rest more subtle. When I turned her around to the mirror, she gasped. She said, "Oh my God. This is what I've been trying to get for years."

Placement matters just as much as the color itself.

Ready for Your Custom Color?

I hope this helps clear things up! Choosing a new hair color is exciting, and you should feel empowered and informed. Whether you're dreaming of a subtle, sun-kissed look or a bold transformation, we're here to help you achieve it.

Let's create a plan together. You can find us at Rock Paper Scissors Hair Studio at 5222 D St., Chino, CA 91710, right in the heart of the beautiful historic downtown.

Give us a call at (909) 707-9553 or book your consultation online. We can't wait to see you and create something beautiful together.